Tune
Around! SEARCH
CQ-Calling All
Hams! About Hamuniverse Antenna Design Antenna Safety! Ask Elmer About Batteries Code Practice Computer Help Electronics FCC
Information Ham Hints Humor Ham Radio News! Post Reviews Product Reviews Ham Radio Videos! HF & Shortwave License Study Links Midi Music Reading Room Repeater Basics
Repeater
Builders RFI Tips and
Tricks Ham Satellites Shortwave Listening SSTV Support The Site STORE Vhf and Up Contact Site Map Privacy Policy Legal Stuff
Advertising Info
|
2 Meter Bobtail Rover
Beam! (or) (How to Upset the Neighbors) By Tom
Clifton, KC0VSJ
Tom builds something in this
project just to upset the neighbors!
 "What is that "Thing" on
top of his Jeep!" Said the neighbors.
"A tent frame, a
portable clothes line, some new fangled TV antenna? A kite
frame?" Sorry neighbors! None of the above.
It's Tom's
new Bobtail
Beam project all ready to go roving and irritate more
neighbors, fellow employees, and wild
life! We bet
the cops will turn their heads too, but to a true ham, isn't it a
beautiful sight!
That "thing" on top of Tom's Jeep is his new
homebrew 2 meter Bobtail Beam designed for roving around the countryside.
Let's find out how Tom built it. Get in, fasten your
seat belts and hang
on!
 Bobtail Beam Posing for
camera with wings spread and feet on the ground using "Quad Pod" base
fixture designed by Tom Elements "Magically Enhanced" by
Windows Technology to Show Detail Camera position is direction of
radiation
Instructions and
materials
Even if you purchase
absolutely everything new it should cost under $50 to make and less if you
are a great scrounger....
2 Meter version
Material:
8' 14ga speaker wire $5.71 6 1/4-20 x 1.5 Brass
Bolts $3.54 2 1/2" PVC Tee $0.64 4 1/2" PVC Elbow $0.96 1
1/2" PVC Cross $1.02 1 1/2" PVC Cap $0.28 2 1/2" x 10' PVC
Pipe $3.24 6 1/4" x 14ga ring lugs $0.96 6 #4 x 14ga ring lugs
$0.96 1 1/8" x 12" K&S Brass Tubing $0.79
XXX 1 5/32 x 12" K&S Brass Tubing $0.89
XXX 1 Pound 3/32 x 36" Brazing Rod
$7.00 2 7/64 twist Drill Bits $3.85 6 1/4-20 nylon wing nuts
$3.00 1 SO-239 Chassis Connector $1.50 1 15' RG-8 w PL259 coax
$9.75 2 6/32 x 1-3/4 bolt $0.30 2 6/32 nut $0.10 1 Nylon
masons cord $1.00 4 6"x6"x 3/4" Plywood Scrap $0.00 1 1/4-20
Steel Wing Nut $0.25 2 1/4" steel flat washer $0.10 1 dozen
12" nylon cable ties $1.00 ----- Total
$46.84
Total PVC
about 22 feet including mast. (Your total length may be
different depending on your construction, errors,
etc.) NOTE: XXX = See
below |
FORMULAS: (These formulas are
not exact but should be close.)
Front Elements 248/freqmhz = length in feet
(multiply by 12 = inches) Reflector Elements 263 / freqmhz = length
in feet ) multiply by 12 = inches) Spacing = .15 X one wavelength
1 Wavelength = 11808 / freq =
inches
GETTING STARTED - The 2 Meter Version (Please note that some of the pictures in this
project could be showing the 70cm band antenna that Tom is also
working on and is not an error. They are used this way only to show
physical constructions details which are much the same for both
bands!)
Use
Caution with hand tools! Eye protection is a good
idea. Don't poke an eye with the
elements! Be careful cutting PVC
Cut the
1/2"PVC pipe:
2 @ 5" (Center Spreaders) 2 @ 11" (End
Spreaders) 4 @ 40" (Side Spreaders) 1 @ 20" (Vertical
stabilizer) 1 @ 48" (Mast)
Drill a 7/64" hole in the ends of the
brass bolts. Before starting, fashion a bolt holder from
a 6"x6"scrap of 3/4" plywood (or similar material) as you are not
going to be able to hold the bolts in your fingers without burning or
otherwise hurting yourself..
Drill a 1/4" hole in the middle of
the plywood scrap and secure the brass bolt with washers and a nut.
Make sure it is tight... Drill the 7/64 hole approximately 3/4"
deep with a drill press or electric hand drill. A new (sharp) twist
drill bit is recommended as is having an extra bit and a spare bolt
around. This be handy if you break a bit as I did. Only five bolts are
needed.
Cut five lengths of 3/32 brazing rod to
23". To cut the brazing rod you can make a deep score with the edge
of a metal file and snap the rod. Insert the rods into the bolts and
solder using a small torch or heavy duty iron. Don't worry about the
exact length at this time as they will be trimmed later.
Drill
(or file) a 9/16" hole in one of the PVC Tee's for mounting the SO-239
Connector. Once the connector is in place, drill holes to clear, then
6/32 bolts. Drill a 3/32 hole for the driven element in the
side opposite the 9/16" hole.
 In this photo you will notice the
SO-239 is mounted to the bottom of the front (toward station)
element. The driven element is attached (inside PVC T) directly to the
end tip of the SO-239 and extends up through the front element. The
feed line is routed as per instructions below using the coax choke
around the center "boom" and down to the rig. (Photo above not to
scale for 2 meters)
Drill 1/4" holes in
the rest of PVC Tee's and elbows for mounting bolts. (see photo)
 Photo showing ends with
elements, ring lugs and wire extending from
them.
Prepare two 14 ga wires with 1/4" ring lugs so that the
centers between lugs are 40 3/16". These are the common "ground" wire
for the three rear elements.
Prepare two 14 ga wires with a 1/4:
ring lug on one end and a #4 ring lug on the other end. Center
to center each cable is about 39 11/16". When the two cables are
connected to the SO-239 connector, the end rings will be 40 3/16"center
to center.
Lay the PVC frame pieces out on the ground
and assemble. The front row to back row spacing is 12" from element
to element. The horizontal spacing is 40 3/16" element to element. Be
sure the center cross is vertical - glue all joints, or if you wish
to make the antenna "portable" you may want to use sheet metal
screws or nuts and bolts to assemble the
frame.
XXX To prepare the driven element, nest a 1" length
of 5/32 K&S tubing with 1" of 1/8" K&S tubing and insert a
23" piece of 3/32 rod into the center of the XXX 1/8" tube. The 5/32" tube should fit neatly
over the center conductor of the PL-239 connector. Use a small torch
or heavy duty iron and solder.
To prepare the driven element, file
3/8" of one end of a 23" long 3/32" rod to fit into the center
conductor (tip end, not connector end) of a SO-239 socket. Tin the
end of the rod, then solder it into the tip part of the
SO-239. For the reflectors, trim three of the rod/bolt assemblies to
21 9/16" The length is measured from the tip to the point where the
bolt touches the common ground.
 Photo of rear "center" element on
reflector portion of antenna. Notice connections to each outside
element using speaker wire.
For the two
front directors, trim the elements to 20 1/4"> (cut longer for
tuning)
For the time being, leave the driven element long,
and assemble the "grounds" and elements to the frame.
Connect
the RG-8 coax to the SO-239 connector. Make a coax choke by wrapping
five turns around the center spreader closest to the connector. Secure
with cable ties and dress the rest of the coax to the mast. See
photo below:

TUNING UP Elevate the antenna about 4' to 6' in
the air and at least a wavelength away horizontally from any
other objects. Apply low power at the desired operating frequency
and trim the driven element for the best SWR. The length should be
about the same as the reflectors. If you cut too short, the driven
element may be lengthened with a piece of the 1/8" K&S tubing - be
sure to solder when done. After trimming the driven element, trim
the remaining two directors to the same length to optimize the
pattern.
My own personal preference is to paint everything using
flat grey spray paint. This will prevent rust and the inevitable UV
damage to the PVC piping if you are going to leave the antenna outdoors
for any length of time.
Alternate methods of
construction:
An alternative frame assembly may be made out
of 3/4" or 1" aluminum angle iron. It is important that the front and rear rows are
electrically isolated from each other regardless of your construction
method. Use plastic or a dense hardwood for the spreaders.
If you use metal, be sure you leave a fairly thick
dielectric insulator of plastic to minimize DC and capacitive
coupling between the sections.
Notes: Non-corroding hardware such as brass, nylon
or stainless is highly recommended on any
antenna project.
Try this
antenna rotated 90 degrees for horizontal polarization - you may wish
to lengthen the design a bit for the "low" end of the SSB portion of
the band.
Formulas, and examples: (Includes 2 meter
and 440 examples)
Front elements 248/147 = 1.68 feet X 12 = 20.24"
@ 147 [6.72” @ 443] [20.64" @ 144]
Reflector elements
263/147 =1.78 feet X 12 = 21.46" @ 147 [7.13” @ 443] [21.96" @
144]
11808/147 = 1 wavelength front and rear = 80.32" @
147 [26.65” @ 443] [82.01" @ 144]
.15 wavelength spacing =
80.32 X .15 =12.04" @ 147 [3.99” @ 443] [12.31" @ 144] (These
formulas are not exact but should be close, as stated earlier.)
Many thanks to N0UHJ for his valuable assistance with the
testing and his input to this project. Thanks Joseph!
Refer to the
"Bobtail Beam Project"
for more info.
 Monitor police, fire, ham
radio, rescue, ships and
more!
 Hamuniverse.com uses Green Geeks Web
Hosting!
|
|