Below is my version of the MFJ-4602 WINDOW FEED
THROUGH PANEL http://www.eham.net/reviews/detail/6631
. Their panel is only 3/4 inch thick plywood and mine is 4 inch PVC board
which I feel allows for a tighter more secure fit and requires no
painting. Also the pvc looks like wood and will last forever!
I think
the MFJ version with 4 , SO- 239 connectors in 3/4 inch plywood
is around $69.95 as of Feb, 2009.
My version cost about $40 to make ,
will last forever and I can add new connectors
as needed. Make it out of a 2x4 and it should not cost much more than $30.
Thanks for letting me share this project with you!
Finished Window feed through viewed
from inside shack
Window feed through
connectors mounted on PVC "board".
I used this panel because I, (by I, I
really mean my XYL - lol), did not want any more holes through the
floor or walls. It also allows me to play with project antennas without
having to run new coax through an open window or going through the effort
of drilling another hole in the floor.
You'll need the follow items to build the
window panel:
1.- SO-239 connects , 4 inch long - I used 5
((All-thread, feed-thru, bulk-head connectors) One for each coax feedline.
Use more as needed for your station.
2. - PVC rot proof board as I used or to
save $$ use a 2x4 - you'll have to paint the wood
3. - thin sheet of stainless steel - I
use 1 sheet 18 x 6 inch , you'll notice in 1 picture I started to use
aluminum strips but changed my mind and stuck with
stainless.
4. - 1ea 8 inch section of all thread for ground
and 2 wing nuts
5. - 8 stainless screws to hold stainless sheet to
boards
6. - 2ea - 3 inch dry wall type screws
7. - door weather stripping for
panel
All-thread, feed-thru, bulk-head
connectors and grounding bolt shown
Instructions:
Measure inside edges of window , you want a very
tight fit!!!
Cut 2 sections of the 1x4 pvc board ,
you'll be using 2 together (2x4)
Cut the stainless sheet in half - will be
3x18
Drill 5ea 5/8 holes and a smaller hole for the
all thread in the panel (about 2 inchs apart on
center).
Drill first in the stainless
panel, then into the pvc panel being sure all
holes are aligned . Be sure to use a punch before drilling the
metal and start with a smaller bit first.
You want the holes in the
stainless for the S0- 239 nice and tight but be sure to allow a
little extra room in the PVC so you'll have a nice square
fit.
Next drill 4 small holes to attach the stainless
sheets to each side of the board and attach with stainless screws . Now
just attach the all thread and S0-239 4 inch connectors and tighten. See
picture below.
Notice holes drilled into double
thickness PVC board for added strength!
Test fit your panel and trim as
needed .You'll have to raise one end and slide in , you want a tight fit!!
Use the weather
stripping to insure a weather proof seal of the panel and the window
above and all sides of the panel.
Once your panel is in place you'll need to secure
the window so it can not be opened from outside. I just took 2 ea 3 inch
long screws above the lower window screwed into the window track to
prevent it from being opened without removing the screws. If you don't
like using screws, you can use a tightly cut length of wood to do the
job.
Other options -
- Cut a hole into pvc to
feed future rotor control wire . I'd use a rubber grommet
for a good seal
- 2 stainless bolts on PVC panel to attach
ladder line to bring into the shack
- I left space for at least 2 more S0-239 feed
through connectors if needed.
- a single stainless bolt in pvc for random
wire
- Use a single peace of PVC board and
shorter feed through connectors if your window won't fit a
2x4
Enjoy
KB3QLK
