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KB3QLK Window Feed Through Panel!

Below is my version of the MFJ-4602 WINDOW FEED THROUGH PANEL http://www.eham.net/reviews/detail/6631 . Their panel is only 3/4 inch thick plywood and mine is 4 inch PVC board which I feel allows for a tighter more secure fit and requires no painting. Also the pvc looks like wood and will last forever!
I think the MFJ version with 4 , SO- 239 connectors in 3/4 inch plywood is around $69.95 as of Feb, 2009. 

My version cost about $40 to make , will last forever and I can add new connectors as needed. Make it out of a 2x4 and it should not cost much more than $30. Thanks for letting me share this project with you!

Finished Window feed through viewed from inside shack

Window feed through connectors mounted on PVC "board".

I used this panel because I, (by I, I really mean my XYL - lol), did not want any more holes through the floor or walls. It also allows me to play with project antennas without having to run new coax through an open window or going through the effort of drilling another hole in the floor.
You'll need the follow items to build the window panel:

1.-  SO-239 connects , 4 inch long - I used 5 ((All-thread, feed-thru, bulk-head connectors) One for each coax feedline. Use more as needed for your station.

2. -  PVC rot proof board as I used or to save $$ use a 2x4 - you'll have to paint the wood

3. -  thin sheet of stainless steel - I use 1 sheet 18 x 6 inch , you'll notice in 1 picture I started to use aluminum strips but changed my mind and stuck with stainless.

4. - 1ea 8 inch section of all thread for ground and 2 wing nuts

5. - 8 stainless screws to hold stainless sheet to boards

6. -  2ea -  3 inch dry wall type screws

7. - door weather stripping for panel

8. - large weather stripping that is made for air conditioners , for top of lower window , like this: http://images.builderssquare.com/Detail/0/5/776/5776394_Detail.jpg

Major parts used in picture below:

All-thread, feed-thru, bulk-head connectors and grounding bolt shown


Measure inside edges of window , you want a very tight fit!!!

Cut 2 sections of the 1x4 pvc board  , you'll be using 2 together (2x4)

Cut the stainless sheet in half - will be 3x18

Drill 5ea 5/8 holes and a smaller hole for the all thread in the panel (about 2 inchs apart on center).  
Drill first in the stainless panel, then into the pvc  panel being sure all holes are aligned . Be sure to use a punch before drilling the metal and start with a smaller bit first.
You want the holes in the stainless for the S0- 239 nice and tight but be sure to allow a little extra room in the PVC so you'll have a nice square fit.

Next drill 4 small holes to attach the stainless sheets to each side of the board and attach with stainless screws . Now just attach the all thread and S0-239 4 inch connectors and tighten. See picture below.

Notice holes drilled into double thickness PVC board for added strength!

Test fit your panel and trim as needed .You'll have to raise one end and slide in , you want a tight fit!!  
Use the weather stripping to insure a weather proof seal of the panel and the window above and all sides of the panel.

Once your panel is in place you'll need to secure the window so it can not be opened from outside. I just took 2 ea 3 inch long screws above the lower window screwed into the window track to prevent it from being opened without removing the screws. If you don't like using screws, you can use a tightly cut length of wood to do the job.

Other options -

- Cut a hole into pvc to feed future rotor control wire . I'd use a rubber grommet for a good seal

- 2 stainless bolts on PVC panel to attach ladder line to bring into the shack

- I left space for at least 2 more S0-239 feed through connectors if needed.

- a single stainless bolt in pvc for random wire

- Use a  single peace of PVC board and shorter feed through connectors if your window won't fit a 2x4


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