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A 2 Element Direct Feed
Yagi by WB2VUO, Keith
Probably the easiest rotatable
beam is a 2 Element Yagi, both in the mechanical and the electrical
sense. While the gain won't be "up there" with the big
tri-banders & the like, a useful amount of gain can be realized
without breaking the bank. Below is a "sketch" of a 2 Element
Yagi.
 Gain is about 5dBd.
The Reflector and the Driven Element are slightly
different lengths, in actuality, the Reflector is 5% longer than the
Driven Element.
The formulas for the element lengths are
listed below:
DE (ft) = 470/F(MHz)
[HF] : DE (in) = 5600/F(MHZ)
[VHF]
REF (ft) =
494/F(MHz) [HF] : REF (in) = 5880/F(MHz) [VHF]
The Spacing can vary from 0.15-Wave to 0.25-Wave, with
little change in the array gain. According to the charts in the
"ARRL Antenna Book", 14th Edition, the variation in gain is less than
0.5dB. What does change is the feed
impedance.
Depending on how you want to feed the array will
determine the spacing. The closer the spacing, the lower the
feedpoint impedance. At 0.20-Wave, the impedance is around
40-Ohms, resulting in a 1.25:1 SWR, and at 0.25-Wave, the feedpoint
impedance is around 60-Ohms, resulting in a 1.17:1 SWR. This is with direct feed with 50-Ohm cable. The
feed can be direct, or through a 1:1 balun, and will show very little
variation either way.
(Editor's note....by extrapolation, you should get very near
50 ohm impedance if the spacing is about .225 wavelength between reflector
and driven element. Swr should be near 1:1)
Construction of the 2 Element
Yagi
Various construction methods can be
used for a 2 Element Yagi. The most common is to take a length of
rigid tubing, cut to the desired boomlength, and mount the elements with
U-bolts, pipe clamps, muffler clamps or what-have-you. The boom can
also be wood or a lattice-like structure, or even PVC pipe. The main
consideration is mechanical strength. The elemenst can be any
conductive material that will support its own weight, or a suitable length
of wire or braid that is supported by a rigid non-conductor. One of
the really inexpensive antennas I saw in a publication used lengths a #14
house wire, taped to bamboo poles. Of course, the author lived in
the South, and just went out in his backyard and cut his own canes!
Some people have all the
luck!
Below,
I have dimensions for some of the HF and VHF bands, and some construction
"tips":
Freq.
REF.
DE.
Spacing 14.1
MHz
35.04'
33.33' 13.95' -
17.45' 18.1
MHz
27.29'
25.97' 10.87' -
13.59' 21.2
MHz
23.30'
22.17' 9.28'
- 11.60' 24.9
MHz
19.84'
18.88' 7.90'
- 9.88' 28.4
MHz
17.39'
16.55' 6.93'
- 8.66'
29.3 MHz
16.86'
16.04' 6.72'
- 8.40' 50.4
MHz
116.90" 111.33"
46.96" - 58.69" 52.5
MHz
112.00" 106.66"
44.99" - 56.23" 146.0
MHz
40.27"
38.36" 16.18" -
20.22" 223.5
MHz
26.31"
25.06" 10.57"
-13.21" Editors note: You should be
able to "split the difference" with the spacing numbers above
for very close to 50 ohms impedance which should give an
excellent match to coax.
Let's say, for example, that you
need a 10 Meter beam. Looking at the chart above, (numbers in red), the longest element is just under 18', and the
boomlength would be about 7' to 8.66'. The elements could be DIY
aluminum tubing (expensive), or it could be EMT (conduit), which is heavy,
but inexpensive. The boom could be a length of TV mast, Chain-link
fence rail or a 2 x 4. The least expensive would be the heaviest (2 x 4
boom & EMT elements), but the total cost would be $LESS.
With about 5dBd gain, and a 25 watt rig (Uniden or Radio Shack,
etc), this would be like going with a 75 watt amp, at $0.33/watt, and if
you were running 100 watts, you would have effectivly 300 watts for
$0.08/watt, plus the cost of the rig, of course. Any way you look at
it, it's a big bang for the Buck! (NOTE, prices are for comparision
only)
If you wanted to make the Yagi for, say, 20 Meters, the
"boom"could be a ladder, (No, I'm not kidding!), or a lattice-construct
made with 2 x 2's or 2 x 4's. It would be HEAVY, ... but the price
of 20 Meter beams are HEAVY, also. It might be feasable to do the
ladder boom, and beef up the mast instead of depleteing your
budget.
For the VHF beams, the boom could be PVC pipe, 2 x 2's, TV
mast or whatever. One suggestion that was in "73" Magazine awhile
back was to use threaded elements, drill holes in the PVC pipe and "bolt"
the elements through the pipe wall. This would provide the
mechanical support and the insulation for the feedpoint all at the same
time. For vertical polarization, the boom could be extended back
beyond the Reflector, and the beam then end-mounted, putting the mast out
of the field of the antenna. This would allow the antenna to even be
side-mounted on an exsisting mast.
The beamwidth of a 2 Element
Yagi is about 110-Degrees, so aiming is not critical, however, the
front-to-side ratio and front-to-back ratio is 10 - 20 dB, providing a
high degree of rejection to unwanted signals. To put this in
perspective, say you lived in Brockport, NY or somewhere in the
Western edge of Monroe County. The 2 Meter version of this antenna
could be mounted up in the clear, and "sited" on the center of
Rochester. You would have gain from the North Greece area, all the
way around to Rush, and would reduce the VE3 repeaters by a couple-or-3
"S"-units. Not bad for a few chunks of wire & a piece of
PVC.
The possibilities are limitless. Consider a 2 Element
Yagi this Antenna season.
 73, Keith WB2VUO
Editor's note:
Many years ago, the 10 meter version of this 2 element Yagi
was built by myself using much the same construction techniques as
mentioned in the article using small aluminum tubing. It was installed on
a short mast about 15 to 17 feet high with a rotor on the ground.
This turned out to be a fantactic performing antenna and I made contacts
worldwide on it. I still have the "parts and pieces" of it resting
comfortably in my "junk" pile as it is called by the XYL! I hope
to revive it from it's "vacation" someday! Thanks to Keith, WB2VUO for
sharing his article with us! Contact Keith via his QRZ email
address.....N4UJW
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